All information about Uses and customs on the island of Saint Barthélemy
Carnival in the West Indies
Invented 2,000 years ago, carnival has evolved over time, from Antiquity to the Belle Epoque. The events are specific to each civilization, but the notion of disrupting social roles and statuses is retained.
This concept has served oppressed social classes or peoples with grievances. It was an opportunity to express sometimes ancestral frustrations and anger. Once a year, almost anything goes!
Derision of oneself or others, of the present or the past, is one of the foundations of carnival.
Unleash, color, festival, explosion! Every Sunday from Epiphany to Ash Wednesday, carnival groups take to the streets, to the delight of all.
Modern Carnival (as we know it) has its origins in Europe, where it developed before spreading throughout the world. The origins of Carnival are as varied as ever, with the oldest known going back to antiquity.
Like many festivals, Carnival owes its origins to antiquity and the Catholic Church. In its bid to establish itself as the sole religion, the Catholic Church initially fought against practices it considered idolatrous, then gradually reclaimed them and integrated them into Catholic practices and beliefs.
The "Mas" (Masks, or disguises)
Preparations are important and well-orchestrated: the carnival "theme" is chosen by the carnival federations, and each island has its own committee. Then the groups get organized: they design their costumes and make them with care.
Traditionally, carnival was used by slaves to practice ancestral religious rites that were forbidden by the Catholic authorities of the time. Masks were those of African deities or tribes of origin, and initiation and exorcism ceremonies were performed. Today, the Mask or "Mas" has lost its sacred character, but the historical reference is alive and well, and the emotions experienced are real.
The "Mas", according to the African conception of the term, refers to all the elements that cover a person from head to toe, unlike the Western conception, which refers to the face. A person who enters a "Mas" loses his or her personality, as it were, and becomes the Masque, "Mofwazé an Mas" (the Spirit of the Mas).
According to tradition, "Mas" are made of jute, banana cloth and other natural materials. Some groups (Voukoum, Basse Terre) have retained their attachment to this tradition. Jute sacks or cloths are transformed into costumes, Portuguese mops are used as hair, newspapers (in black and white) are cut into strips to make the impressive "Mas a fwèt" (Whip Mask), "boutou" (tree branches) and shells or roots are the finishing touch to the traditional "Mas".
Paint covers the hands, face or body parts left exposed by the Mas, e.g. blue paint for the "Mas tirayè Sénégal" (Senegalese Tirailleurs Mask), sometimes other materials are used depending on the day or theme: flour for the "Mas a man ibè" (Mask of Dame Hubert), table oil and roucou for the "Mas a Roukou" (Roucou Mask), sugarcane molasses, battery syrup and soot for the "Mas a kongo".
On the other hand, some groups (Waka, Basse-Terre) parade in ceremonial outfits reminiscent of Brazilian or Italian carnival. In such cases, they choose more contemporary, even state-of-the-art materials! For their costumes, they use modern materials such as lurex, satin, sequined Lycra, and even a gold/silver hologram paper fabric that changes color!
A blend of modernity and tradition, West Indian carnival is surprising in its strength and diversity.
Papiyon volé sé volé nou ka volé!
Brass and drums or tambou a po (skin drum)? The range of styles and resonances at Carnival in the French West Indies is wide enough for everyone to enjoy.
The traditional drum (wooden barrel, natural skin) has become rare in Martinique, unlike in Guadeloupe, and we find instead snare drums or tom drums, or even plastic barrels for basses.
The ti-bwa (two drumsticks) strikes a bamboo or the drumhead.
In Guadeloupe, parade music is produced from recycled objects: plastic drums hit with a stick whose end is padded with cloth and rubber, calabashes lined with licorice seeds for the chacha, wood-bamboo, lambi conches; whistles, the Tiyo bamboo (bamboo pipe), the Siyak Tanbouras (flat, round drum) and the whip that doesn't clack the streets of Martinique can also be heard.
The parades feature a succession of brass bands, using snare drums among other instruments, skin bands with their whips and drums covered in goatskin, and the more modern synthesizer bands.
In the run-up to the "jours gras", when the festivities come to a climax, the groups take to the streets on Sundays for a colorful display of themes and costumes.
There are a number of differences between the parades in Martinique and Guadeloupe.
In Martinique, the "Bwadjak" (old made-up cars) will surprise the crowds again this year, with young people parading around in old made-up cars that serve as remarkable floats!
The free and spontaneous participation of the public is the hallmark of Martinique's carnival, with the locals parading along in racy or exuberant outfits alongside the organized groups.
A recent mas, that of the "men of clay" (they coat their bodies in clay), was "born" in 2000 in Les Trois Ilets, the cradle of artisan pottery.
In Guadeloupe, the "Mas a Te é Feyaj" (Mask of clay and foliage) resembles it. Dried banana leaves cover the "Marian lapofig" figure that twirls in parades in Martinique, and which in Guadeloupe is called the "Mas a con'n" (Horned Mask).
Carnival is a time of many events of all kinds.
Queen elections are held on every island, and even in every commune.
Mini-queens are elected in St Martin and Martinique, as is the Queen Mother.
A special feature of Martinique is the election of the "Rois de la Sape", who designate the most elegant gentlemen...
Shrove Monday is often the day of the schoolchildren's parade. In the streets, burlesque weddings take place: couples made up of men dressed as women and women dressed as men appear before the priest and registrar to the delight of all.
In Martinique, pyjama parties are sometimes held on Shrove Monday evening, while in Guadeloupe they take place on Shrove Tuesday morning.
Shrove Tuesday
The main carnival day kicks off at 5 a.m. with a grand pajama parade. This is followed by a series of glittering parades that last until the evening. On this day, traditionally, everyone must parade in red in Martinique and in red and black in Guadeloupe.
The red devil or ice devil is spectacular with his horns and mirrors, accompanied by all his imps!
Ash Wednesday
On Ash Wednesday, the "guiablesse" mourns Vaval, dressed in black and white (Martinique). It's the day of the "vidé an nwè é blan" (black and white deboulé) followed by the "mô é lantèwman a vaval" (death and burial of Vaval).
The "Nèg gwo siro", present on all the islands, frighten the audience by threatening to smear them in black too!
Mid-Carême Thursday is celebrated in Guadeloupe with black-and-red parades.
Carnival gives us a chance to let off steam, to let go. It's culturally rooted in the traditions of certain peoples, such as the West Indians, but anyone can do the same, as a way of "exorcising" all frustrations - and there are plenty of them these days! It's a tradition that finds its explanation and justification in today's society, where the yoke to be mocked isn't as blatant as it used to be, but each of us carries one in our heart. Together, let's take the "Mas"!
Panorama of Traditions
The touloulou is the queen of carnival. This character represents the bourgeois women of the 18th and 19th centuries. She is an elegantly dressed lady from head to toe. These are usually women with not an ounce of skin visible. She wears a petticoat, a hood, a wolf and long gloves. To avoid being recognized, the women go so far as to wear colored contacts, wigs and disguise their voices. They parade in the streets and take part in masked balls.
In nightclubs, renamed "universities" for the occasion, it's the touloulous who invite the men to dance. They can't refuse.
CARNAVAL DE MARTIN
On the French side of the island, carnival festivities begin on Epiphany Sunday and end on Ash Wednesday. During this period, it's not uncommon to see children in disguise, "begging" motorists for sweets. In the evening, concerts are organized featuring local artists. On the last day, devils and she-devils parade through the streets to the sound of tom-toms. At the end of the day, Vaval, the King of Carnival (known locally as Bois-Bois), is burned before being thrown into the sea to the cheers of the crowd. In April, the Dutch part of St. Martin also celebrates Carnival.
ST BARTH CARNIVAL
Carnival festivities begin on Epiphany Sunday. Groups are busy building their floats and making their costumes. Parades are held every Sunday until Ash Wednesday. Dimanche Gras marks the start of the week's festivities, and the excitement begins to build.